Improvement in sewing-machines



Witnesses:

3 Sheets-Sheetl.

R. EICKEMEYER.

SEWING- MACHINES.

Patented Sept; 12, 1876.

N'o.18Z,18Z.

N. PETERS. PHOTO UTHOGRAPHER, WASHINGTON- D. C.

1 3 Sheets-Sheet Z. R. EICKEMEYER. SEWI N G-M A CH'I N E S.

Patented QM N N-PETERS, PHOTOUTIIOGRAPIHER. WASHINGTON. D C

' 3 Sheets-Sheet 3 R. E ICKEMEYER. SEWING-MACHINES;

- Patented Sept 12, 1876,

N. PETERS, PHOTO-LITHOGRAFHER. WASHINGTON, D C.

UNITED STATES PATENT OFFICE,

BUDOLFEIOKEMEYEB, or YONKERS, NEW YORK.

IMPROVEMENT IN SEWING-MACHINES.

Specification forming part of LettersPatent No. 182,182, dated September 12, 1876 application filed April 26, 1876.

To all whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, RUDOLF EIOKEMEYER, of the city of Youkersfln the county of Westchester and State of New York, haveinvented certain newand useful Improvements in Sewing-Machines; and I do hereby declare that the following specification, taken in connec-.

the machine may be operated as is usual with sewing-machines, or at will be thrown backward and made to operate while in an inclined position. This feature is of great practical value in connectionwith hat-work, and is also of valuein many other connections, as thereby, for instance, an operative may run a powermachine with equal facility, Whether seated on a chair, as usual, or in a standing position.

Another portion of my invention relates to single-thread stitching mechanism; and it consists in the combination, with a cast-off, of a complex looper, composed of two hooks, which project in opposite directions, are united to each other, are vibrated together, and are so arranged that one book performs the wellknown function of a looper for drawing out a loop from the needle, and the other hook opcrates as a spreading and controlling device, for opening the loop and carrying its lower end past the path of the.needle,-and for maim taining control of the loop after the cast-off has'cleared it from the looper-hook, and then releasing it while the looper-hook is drawing, out asucceeding loop. This feature is of general value in single-thread machines employing a vibrating hook or looper; but it has a special valuein machines of this class which are adapted to hat-work, involving the stitcl1- ing of heavy sweat-linings into full stiff hats. Another-feature of my invention relates to hat-work, and is designed to locate the out side stitch-line snfficiently above the exterior junction of side crown and brim to enable the outside stitch-line to be covered by the hat band. This portion of my invention consists in a work-plate, having two faces, rectangular to each other, and a needle, which moves in a line with or parallel to a line bisecting the angle of the work-plate, in'combination with a presser-foot, having faces which correspond with the faces of the work-plate, which presses,

equally on both faces, and which moves to and from the Work-plate in a line parallel with the path of the needle.

Another portion of my invention relates-exclusively to hat-work; and consists of such a construction of the work-plate, adjacent to.

the feeding-dog and presser-foot, that a stiff, curled'brilnof a hat will not be unduly bent during thestitching of a sweat-lining into. the hat. This novel construction, briefly stated, consists in a work-plate, having a front face for supporting the side crown, and a narrow rear face for supporting the bri:n, .mounted upon a standard, which projects above the driving-shaft, and contains or supports the feeding and the stitch-forming mechanism, whereby a free open space is, afforded at the rear of the standard, between the drivingshaft and therear face of the work-plate, for

(the reception of a stiff, curled brim.

Another portion of my invention relates exclusively to hat-work, and is designed to provide a work-plate which may be adjusted so as to support hats with crowns of various forms, and also to facilitate the guiding of the hat to the stitchingmechanism. This feature consists in the combination, with the main work-plate, of an auxiliary work-plate, mounted adj ustahly on the frame of the machine, so.

that it may be set in anydesired position with relation to the main work-plate.

Another feature of my invention also relates' exclusively to hat-work, and is designed to enable the machine to stitch a turned lining, as well as linings which are not turned after stitch ing. This feature consists in an attachable presser-foot, which is provided with two compressing-faces, and an intermediate space between the two for the reception of the sweatlining. It is also provided with a transverse slot, having an open end, which serves as a guide for the edge of the lining which is adjacent tothe needle.

Other minor features of my invention will be hereafter definitely set forth.

Sewing-machines heretofore used for stitching sweat-linings'into hats have failed in many respects to meet the requirements of the art. As an instance, I will state that when linings are stitched into hats with curled brims by any of those machines, it is necessary to turn or bend the brim down closely in order that it may clear the work-plate and the stitching mechanism, whereby the stiff of the hat and its shape is always more or less impaired. Again, machines for this purpose, as heretofore constructed, have either had only a capacity to stitch the lining at the edge with a fancy stitch, or through and through from the front side of the lining in plain stitching. leaving the line of stitches in each case in full view, or, on the other hand, acapacity for stitching a lining from its rear side, so that it could be subsequently turned, and thereby conceal the line of stitches.

So far as my knowledge extends, no machine prior to my present invention has possessed the double capacity of performing either service when desired, nor the capacity to operate on hats with curled brims without bending or flattening said brims.

To more particularly describe my invention, I will refer to the accompanying drawings, of which there are three sheets.

Figure 1, Sheet 1, represents one of my machines-in side view, with a portion of its table or stand in section. Fig. 2 represents a portion of the work-plate and presser-foot in sec- .tion, and the needle-bar and needle in relative position as if operating upon a hat shown partially in section, and a lining which is being stitched directly through its face to the hat. Fig.'3 represents, in perspective, the presser-foot shown in Fig. 2. Fig. 4 represents the work-plate, presser-foot, and needle, as if stitching a lining, which is to be subsequently turned. Fig. 5 represents, in top view, the presser-foot shown in Fig. 4. Fig. 6, Sheet 2, represents the machine in front view,

with the adjustable auxiliary work-plate re moved. Fig. 7 represents the npperand lower portions of the machine in section on line to .r, Fig. 1, and also represents the looping mechanism as viewed from the rear of the work-plate. Fig. 8 represents the machine in' lateral vertical section on line y 2, Fig. 1. Fig. 9 represents the-needle-bar detached and in section. Fig. 10 represents, in side view and detached, the looper, the auxiliary hook, their axis, a lever by whichthey are vibrated, and the cast-oft". Fig. 11 represents, in edge view, the devices shown in- Fig. 10. Fig. 12 represents the looper in side view and detached. Fig. 13 represents the spreading' hook in side view and detached. Fig. 14represents the cast-off in side View and detached.

Fig; 15' represents the main work-plate in top view. Fig. 18, Sheet 3, represents, in side view, a sewing-machine embodying my novel stitching mechanism adapted to ordinary service, with a flat work-plate of the usual form. Fig. 17 represents the same in front end view. Fig. 16 represents the same in rear end view, with the drivingwheel removed from the main shaft. Fig. 19 represents the looper and spreading-hook detached, in top view. Fig. 20 represents the spreading-hook and its axis detached, in front and edge views. Fig. 21 represents the looper detached, in front and edge view. Fig. 22 represents the cast-01f detached, in front and edge views.

It is to be understood that my machine, in practice, is mounted upon a bench or table, as at A,and arranged to be operated by a treadle or other well-known driving mechanism.

-In Fig. 1 the form of the frame at B is clearly shown. It resembles in outline the letter G, and

is composed of cast metal. The frame is laterally recessed for the reception of the operative mechanism, as is clearly shown in Figs. 1, i

7, and 8. The entire machine is mounted upon a'transverse main driving-shaft, as at U, which is embraced within a neck or sleeve, a, cast solid with the frame, as clearly indicated in Fig. 8. This sleeve serves as a trunnion for the frame, and permits it to assume any desired position, and it is securely held therein by a set-screw, as at a, in the housing of this sleeve, as indicated in Fig. 8. The main driv-' ing-shaft has at its inner end a bevel-gear, b, which .meshes with a bevel-gear, c, on the counter driving-shaft d, which is mounted in bearings attached to the frame. Motion is imparted to the needle-barD from the countershaft by means of the crank e, rod f, rock-shaft g, with a lever at each end, and the link h, which connects the lever h at the front end of the rock-shaft with the needle-bar. The

needle-bar operating'rock-shaft g has an adjustable screw-center at each end, as at 9, thereby securing a bearing having a minimum of friction and a capacity for readily taking up wear, thereby securing at all times a smooth and easy motion of the'needle-bar. The shaft d, which operates the needle-bar, the feeding and the looping mechanism, is referred to by me herein as a counter-shaft, and also as a driving-shaft, in contradistinction to'the transverse main driving-shaft 0, on which the entire machine is mounted. The feeding mechanism and the stitch-forming'mechanism are mounted upon the base or standard g, which extends upward above the drivingshaft d, and on the top of this standard or base the work-plate is mounted The feeding mechanism is operated by the counter-shaft d by means of a cam, i, which lifts and vibrates the feed-bar E in its forward or'feeding movement. The bar is guided by means of a vertical slot and a pivoted guide-block, as at The downward and backward movement of the feed-bar is effected by means of the spring The adj usting-screw at is, Fig. 7, regulates the length of the stitch by limiting the backward movement of the feed-bar. A bent plate, at i is secured to the frame, and passes to the rear of the feed-bar adjacent to the guideblock 6 which, by contact with the bar, serves to maintain it in position. The feed-bar dog has two serrated surfaces for engaging with the side crown and the brim at their exterior junction. 7

The stitch-forming devices, which operate in conjunction with the needle, are also operated by the counter-shaft D, which extends through the frame at the front, and has a' crank, d ,at its outer end, clearly shown in Fig. 6. The crank al by means of a link, d is connected with the hub-lever 01 which is connected by a set-screw with a rock-shaft, Z, on the opposite or rear end of which the looper is mounted. The looper F is clearly shown in working position, and is also illustrated in detail on Sheet 2. It is composed of the vibrating looper-hook m (similar to othershe're tofore in use) and the novel spreading-hook at. These hooks project in oppositedirections, and are secured to each other, side by side, on the same rock-shaft l. The working-point of the spreading-hook is curved toward the coincident side of the looper-liuk, and is closely adjacent thereto, so that the thread of the loop between the looper-hook and the spreading-hook will, as the loop is drawn out, be carried outside said curved point, and so enable the spreading-hook at the return movement to freely enter the loop and open it. t

The cast-off is shown .at 0. It is fixedly mounted on an arm which is secured to a stationary sleeve, in which the looper rock-shaft l is located. The looper and cast-off, with the rock-shaft and its lever, all in their proper relative positions, are shown detached in Figs.

l0and 11, and the looper-hook 1n, spreadinghook it, and cast-off o, are shown in detail in Figs. 12, 13, and 14, respectively. The pecu liar operation of these parts Willbe hereafter fully described.

The tension devices and take-up are clearly shown in Fig. 1. The thread passes from the spool, through an eye, thence between springdisks, thence through an eye on the needle bar, thence through the take-upeye in the tension-spring p, thence upward through a second eye on the needle-bar,and from thence through the eye of the needle. The tensionspring lever pis secured to the frame of the machine, and extends through a central vertical slot, atp ,in the needle-bar, shown in. Fig. 8. The tension-lever is forced downward-- machines.

of the feed-bar, and for the needle.

provide for maintaining a curled brim intact while stitching a sweat-lining. It is to be observed, at Fig. 1,:for instance, that the counter-shaft d extends through the front base q of the frame, which is, in practice, in a fullsized machine,only about one-half inch in thickness. By reason of this extension of the counter-shaft the operative connecting devices between it and the looper are located in front of the base, and this necessitates at the rear of the base or standard q the occupation of a space only sufficient to accommodate the feedthe lower portion of the frame, and that there is a free open space below and surrounding the rear edge of the work-plate for the reception of even a very wide curled brim. This elevation of the work-plate is practically effected by reason of the feeding mechanism, and the looping or other stitch-forming mechanism being wholly mounted upon the standard, and connected with the driving-shaft by suitable communicating mechanism, and it will be seen that the feed-bar and a vibrating.

that a'revolving hook mountedon a revolving shaft, as heretofore, could not be practically employed with the elevated standard, because the great length of the hook required would necessarily involvethe manipulation by a takeup of an excessive length of thread.

It will be seen, therefore, th'at it is important that the stitch-forming mechanism which is located below the work-plate should be mounted upon or supported by the standard, instead of being mounted upon or supported by the driving-shaft, as is usual in sewing- The work-plate shown in Fig. 15 is provided with the usual openings for the serrated faces It has-a front face at a" and a rear face at .9. (Shown in side view in Fig. 1, and in section in Figs. 2 and 4, and in top view at Fig. 15.) The Iront face 1' has a bearings irface of considerable area, and it is concave to conform generally with the exterior of a hat-body. At the junction'of the two faces of the 'work plate the edge is well rbundedyalthough the line of either face is at right angles to the line of the other, as shown in Fig. 2. The needle in its movement bisects the angle of the work-plate, although similar results will be attained if the angle be not truly bisected, provided the path of the needle be in a line which is parallel with the path of the needle, as here shown, but advanced therefrom toward the front face of the plate. The rear face 8 is convex in its outline, as shown in Fig. 15. A

H denotes-an auxiliary work-plate. (Shown in side view in Fig. 1 and in section in Figs. 2 and 4.) It is concaved to correspond with the surface of the main plate, and is provided with a slotted arm, whereby, by means of the holding-screw t, it is secured to the frame of the machine, and adjusted in any desired position. I denotes the presser-bar, which is provided with a spring and with a lifting -1ever, as usual. I

K denotes in Figs. 1,2, 3, 6, and 7 a presser-foot, for use when the sweats are not to be turned, but are to be stitched through and through from their front faces. This presserfoot has two faces, 0 and v for engaging with the two faces of the feed-bar and of the workplate. It is also provided with a transverse slot, as at u, for' the reception of the sweatliningas it is fed with the hat to the stitching mechanism. The inner end of this slot serves as a guide for the upper or outer edge of the lining.

L in Figs. 4 and 5 denotes a presser-foot for stitching a lining, which is to be subsequently turned. It is provided with two compressing-plates, v and Q2 The plate 0 is for pressure upon the front face 1 of the workplate, and the plate 1: for pressure upon the rear face. The plates 1) and e have an open intermediate space, as at w, between their adjacent edges, for the reception of the sweatlining. The presser-foot is in the form of an elongated loop, the interior of which affords a space throughwhich the lining passes. It is provided with a tubular neck at o for the reception of the presser-bar, and a set-screw for securing it thereto. The plate 2; is provided with atransverse, slot at v for receiving the lining, and its lower end serves as a guide for the edge of thelining.

On Sheet 3 I show the stitching mechanism combined with an ordinary flat work-plate. The frame of this machine is unlike that previously described, and will. be seen to be of ordinary construction. It is only necessary to explain that the looper F, as a whole, is

- similar to that already described, having the rock-shaft l, the looper-hook m, and spreading-hook 11/, operating in conjunction with the cast-off 0. The two hooks are slightly different in form from those previously described, and the same is true of the cast-off, but they operate in precisely the same manner. The looper is vibrated by means of a link, which connects with a crank-pin on the driving-shaft, as clearly shown in Fig. 17.

The following description of the operation of the stitching mechanism is applicable to both forms of machine:

Referring to Fig. 7, it is to be understood that the needle is ascending after having made a stitch, and that the thread-loopvis held by the looper-hook m. As the needle next descends the looper moves toward the left hand, and in doing so the point of the spreading hook it passes inside the loop, opens it,.and carries its lower end past the path of the needle; and before this backward movement is fully completed,-the looper-hook m is-relieved.

of the loop by the cast-off, the spreading-hook n meantime maintaining control of the loop. Now, as the looper next moves forward, the needle has been sufficiently elevated to open a new loop for the hook m to engage with; and as the needle continues to rise and the looper to move forward, the spreading-hook releases the previously-formed loop, and the stitch is drawn tightby the tension devices and the looper. The drawing out of each loop by the looper tightens the next previous one; and as the spreading-hook and'looper move together, the spreading-hook is withdrawn from the previous loop as fast as that loop is tightened by the looper-hook in forming the new loop. The thread is thus held nearly tight during the action of the looper; but there. is no strain on the thread, except when the looper-hook tightens the stitch, at which time the take-up provides for the length of thread necessary for forming the next stitch, and a firm seam can thus be made without danger to the thread, even if the machine be operating on full stiff hats with heavy linings.

I will now describe how, with my machine, an unturned lining may be stitched into a hat.

The presser-foot being raised, a hatis placed on the work-plate, with its corner or outside junction of side crown and brim in contact with the junction of the two faces of the workplate. The lining is then passed through the guiding-slot u in presser-foot K, and adjusted beneath the foot with relation to the path of the needle. The presser-foot is then lowered. The hat is thus properly held against the two faces of the feed-bar. The auxiliary workplate H will be adjusted so as to afford a good bearing for the side crown. In order to secure good results the hat must be guided accurately, and to do this it should be balanced as nearly as possible on the serrated faces of the feeding bar or dog, and this is readily effected by tipping the machine backward or forward. For high-crown hats I prefer that the brim should incline toward the operative,

and for low crowns I prefer the brim to incline in the opposite direction. These preferences are, however, modified somewhat by the shapes of crown and.v brim, and no definite rule can therefore be given in this connection. With a little practice on any style of hat, this system of adjustment will render the guiding of the hat almost automatic, leaving the operative to attend specially to the guiding of the lining. The auxiliary work-plate, by adjustment, will afford a good bearing for the-hat,

whether it be larger at the crown than at the band or smaller. Themachine is then put in motion, and the lining stitched. The upper edge of the lining is held in contact with the guiding-surface at the end of the slot it, thus securing a stitch-line which is truly parallel with the edge of the lining.

For stitching a turned lining into a hat the presser-foot K is removed, and the presser-foot L appliedto the resser-bar, asindicatedin Figs. 4 and 5. In this case the lining, wrong side up, is passed through the transverse guiding-slot 11 with its lower edge extended into the open space in 'the bent arm of the foot, after which the machine is operated as before, and after the stitching is completed the lining is turned down into the hat. In both cases the needle enters closelyadjacent t0. the interior junction of crown and brim, and forms the outside stitch-line sufficiently above the exterior junction to enable the band to fully cover said. stitch-line.

Having thus described my invention, I claim as new and desire to secure by these Letters Patent 1. Sewing mechanism contained within or mounted upon a frame, which is axially mount-' ed upon a transverse driving-shaft, substantially as described, whereby the mechanism may be operated while the machine is set in any desired position with relation to its driving-shaft, as set forth.

2. The combination, with a cast-ofl', of a looper, composed of two hooks, which project in opposite directions, are united to each other, are vibrated together, and arranged with relation to a needle, substantially as described,-

whereby one of said hooks draws outa loop from the needle and the other hookspreads the loop, carries the lower end thereof past the path of the needle, and maintains control of the loop after the'cast-off has released it from the looper -hook, substantially as described.

3. In a machine for stitching linings into hats, a work-plate, having two faces rectan gular to each other, and a needle which moves in a line with, or parallel to, a line bisecting the angle of the work-plate, in combination with a presscr-foot, having two faces which correspond with the faces of the Work-plate, which presses equally on both faces, and which moves to and from the work-plates in a line parallel with the path of the needle, substantially as described.

4. In a machine for stitching linings into hats, a work-plate, having a front face for sup porting the side crown, and a narrowrear face for supporting the brim, mounted upon a standard, which projects above the driving- 'shaft, and contains or supports the feeding and stitch-forming mechanism, substantially as described, whereby a free open space is afforded at the rear of the standard above the drivingshaft, and below the rear face of the work-plate, for the reception of the edge of stiff curled briins, as set forth.

5. In amachine for stitching linings into substantially as described.

RUDOLF EICKEMEYER.

Witnesses:

J AS. G. WOODWORTH, W. H. Dory. 

